The Low Voltage Cable and Wire sold by Landscape Lighting World is specifically designed for low voltage outdoor lighting. It is meant to optimize the performace and longevity of your professional grade Low Voltage Transformer. It is recommended that you also use true direct burialLow Voltage Connectorssuch as our Blazing DBR connectors shown below. Scroll to the bottom of the page to see some GREAT TIPS regarding installing low voltage outdoor lighting cable.
VOLT® Direct Burial Cable is the industry's premier low voltage cable for landscape lighting. The insulation sheath has UV inhibitors to resist polymerization from the sun, and softener additives so it stays flexible in the cold. UL Listed, MADE IN THE USA.
Everything pictured on Landscape Lighting World is actually stocked in our own warehouse and shipped out SAME DAY (if order is placed by 3pm EST--Fedex comes at 4pm). To see the delivery time to reach your door view the Fedex Ground Transit Time Map
VOLT® cable made in the U.S.A.
Click on any picture for detailed product page.
VOLT® Direct Burial cable
Layout TIPS for perfect installation
Lower loads per run means lower voltage
drop.Break your layout up into
multiple cable runs of ~ 100-150 watts per run.If you have more than 150 watts in an area -- break it up into 2 runs.
Break your layout into “Distance Zones.”For example put fixtures 15-30’ away from the transformer on
one run, fixtures 25-40’ on another run, fixtures 30-50’ on another run, and so
on.The goal is have all the fixtures on
a run be roughly the same distance from the transformer so they have similar
amounts of voltage drop.That way when
you adjust for voltage drop by increasing the voltage for that one run, the
lights are not over-volted or under-volted.
example, never have a fixture 20’ from the transformer on the same run as a
fixture 80’ from the transformer.Why?Because if you use the 12v
tap, the close fixture will have the correct voltage (about 11 volts) but the
far fixture will only have about 8 volts and be dim (because of voltage drop).However if you use a higher voltage tap to
make the far fixture brighter, the close fixture will be over-volted
(dangerous, fire risk, lights will be uneven, lamp lifespan drastically
shortened).Anything over 12 volts
dramatically reduces lamp life--13 volts cuts the lamp life in half!).
Don’t “Daisy Chain” the fixtures.In other words don’t connect fixture after
fixture in-line to the same cable.You
can do a couple fixtures in series, but we don’t recommend exceeding more than
3 fixtures or 75 watts in series.Instead form T’s or spider splices so that there is never more than 2
fixtures between any one fixture and the transformer.Example you might have 6 fixtures on a run
but the cable layout is like a T with 3 fixtures on the upper left part of the
T and 3 fixtures on the upper right part of the T.Even the end fixture only has 2 fixtures
between it and the transformer.
Why?Well as an analogy, if you had a hose and it
had 6 equal sized holes, the first hole would squirt a lot of water but the
last hole would only be dribbling water due to lack of pressure (i.e. voltage
drop in electricity).However if you “T”
off the hose, that is connect the water supply to the middle of that hose
(between holes 3 and 4) the holes would squirt a more equal amount from each
hole.You want to do the same with your
low voltage cable layout—equalize the voltage to each fixture.Make sense?
For each run, bring the wire from the
transformer to the middle of that zone, and then branch off more cable from
there to reach different areas.This
can be done with a hub or by simply splicing in more cable to form a ‘T”
layout.This T layout somewhat
incorporates objectives we discussed above in TIPS 2 & 3 –getting all
fixtures with roughly the same length of cable to reach the transformer (TIP
#2) and avoiding daisy chaining (TIP #3).
example if you have 4 path lights along a driveway each 10’ apart, run the cable
from the transformer to the area between fixtures 2 & 3 (even if it means passing
fixtures 1 & 2 without connecting them).Then splice in a “T” with cable going back to fixtures 1 and 2 and cable
going out to fixtures 3 and 4 – then connect the fixtures.This way electricity has to travel the same
distance to reach the closest fixture (fixture #1) as it does to reach the
farthest fixture (fixture #4).Additionally
you only have 2 fixtures daisy chained in a row.If the farthest fixture is dim you can use a
higher voltage tap on the transformer without over volting the closest
fixture.All your lights in that distance
zone/on that run have the same amount of cable to reach the transformer and
accordingly will all have the same voltage and all be bright and even.It may seem odd to pass by a fixture with
cable and then run more cable back to it—but what you are really doing is
adding more cable distance to your close fixtures so that they equal the cable
used in far fixtures.